Categories Moonshine

What Degrees Does Moonshine Start And Stop? (Best solution)

The vapor temperature will be over 175°F (80°C) when the heads start coming, and it will continue up until the vapor temp reads about 196°F (91°C).

What should the temperature of a still be to make moonshine?

  • You will often start to see some product dripping from your still when the Head / Column temperature reaches 56 Celsius. But generally the temperature range that you want to collect Moonshine within is between 78-82 °C and we generally stop collecting the distillate once we start getting fusels coming out.

Contents

What temp does moonshine start running?

Generally, distillers make the first cut in the run when the temperature in the still’s pot reaches approximately 175-180 degrees Fahrenheit.

What temperature does Mash turn into moonshine?

But generally the temperature range that you want to collect Moonshine within is between 78-82 °C and we generally stop collecting the distillate once we start getting fusels coming out. This is generally happens at a head temperature of 94 °C or higher.

At what proof do you stop running moonshine?

When to Stop Distilling Experienced moonshiners generally run their stills until the alcohol from the wash has reduced to somewhere around 10-20 proof. It is not worth the time and energy to distill further to separate the little remaining alcohol from the water.

What temperature should I run my reflux still?

If, for example, 90°C / 194°F is the optimal head temperature for your reflux still column to collect alcohol, if the temperature increases during the distillation, the distiller can increase the reflux ratio and thereby increase the amount of ABV being sent over to the product condenser.

How much alcohol can you get from 5 gallons of mash?

For the instant gratification seekers in the crowd, here’s the short answer: A 1 gallon run will yield 3-6 cups of alcohol. A 5 gallon run will yield 1-2 gallons of alcohol. A 8 gallon run will yield 1.5-3 gallons of alcohol.

What proof do I need to stop distilling?

When the Distillation Process Ends Experienced commercial distillers generally run their stills until the alcohol from the wash has reduced to somewhere around 10-20 proof. It is not worth the time and energy to distill further to separate the little remaining alcohol from the water.

What temp do tails start?

Tails. Tails are the last part of your distillate, constituting anything that comes out once your vapor temp reaches 203°F (95°C) – 207°F/208°F (97°C/98°C).

Why was moonshine made illegal?

So why is moonshine still illegal? Because the liquor is worth more to the government than beer or wine. Uncle Sam takes an excise tax of $2.14 for each 750-milliliter bottle of 80-proof spirits, compared with 21 cents for a bottle of wine (of 14 percent alcohol or less) and 5 cents for a can of beer.

What temperature does methanol boil?

An ordinary pot still, without a thump keg, is capable of distilling a wash to only a “low wine”, which will be about 40-50% alcohol. Many shiners in fact prefer to use a wooden barrel for the thump keg, precisely because it loses less of this useful heat than would a metal one.

Can you drink the tails of moonshine?

Don’t drink the tails, either. They will contain the heavier, oilier compounds that are bitter and many are also toxic.

How can you tell if moonshine is poisonous?

How to Test for Purity. Folklore tells us one way to test the purity of moonshine is to pour some in a metal spoon and set it on fire. 6 If it burns with a blue flame it is safe, but if it burns with a yellow or red flame, it contains lead, prompting the old saying, “Lead burns red and makes you dead.”

How fast should moonshine drip?

Slowly bring your temperature up to 150 °F. Once you reach 150 °F, if your setup has a condenser turn on the condensing water. Next, dial up your heat source to high until your still starts producing. Time your drips as they speed up until you reach 3 to 5 drips per second.

How do you pack a reflux still column?

The easiest way to increase the final proof of your still’s output is to pack the column with copper mesh and/or ceramic raschig rings. This still column packing increases the final proof by giving the cool reflux within the column a larger surface area to trickle down and through.

Distillation Temperature

The article “How are Commercial Spirits Made? ” is highly recommended prior to reading this one, since it gives an excellent summary of the concept of distillation. Continue reading if you are already familiar with the fundamentals. Before we get started, here’s a little reminder: If you do not have a federal fuel alcohol or distilled spirit plant permit as well as the necessary state permissions, you are prohibited from distilling alcohol. Our distillation apparatus is intended solely for legal reasons, and the information contained in this paper is intended solely for educational purposes.

The Boiling Temperature of Ethanol

We receive a large number of queries concerning distillation and temperature control. According to a large amount of evidence, the boiling temperature of ethanol is 174 degrees Fahrenheit. The truth is that this is only half true. Pure ethanol has a boiling temperature of 174 degrees Fahrenheit. ethanol in a wash, which is to say ethanol combined with water, boils at a temperature that is fully dependent on the ratio of ethanol to water. The boiling temperature increases in direct proportion to the amount of water present in the solution.

In this case, the boiling point of a solution containing 100 percent ethanol is 174 degrees Fahrenheit.

It is true that the boiling point (liquid) temperature of ethanol in a 50/50 solution of ethanol and water will be around 180 degrees.

Should a Still Start Producing Alcohol At 174 Degrees Fahrenheit?

Among the many questions we receive is this one: “Should I expect to see alcohol escaping from my still after the temperature has reached 174 degrees F?” No, a commercial distiller should not engage in this practice, according to the response. Why? Pure ethanol has a boiling point of 174 degrees Fahrenheit, as previously stated. The wash produced by a still is not pure ethanol. If such were the case, why would anybody bother distilling it? A first-run wash is typically no stronger than 20 percent ethanol in concentration.

  1. Rather of being 100 percent alcohol (ethanol), it’s more likely to be 90 percent water.
  2. A wash with a starting alcohol concentration of 10 percent ethanol will not boil anywhere near 174 degrees Fahrenheit.
  3. For those who are unfamiliar with how to determine the alcohol content of a wash, we recommend that you read ourHow to Use a Hydrometerarticle.
  4. It depicts the liquid boiling temperature of ethanol as a function of the concentration of ethanol in a solution (in degrees Celsius).

It is also important to remember that the data in the chart above only pertains to distillation at sea level! The boiling point of water decreases with altitude, and vice versa.

Should a Still Maintain a Constant Temperature During Distillation?

The following is another question we receive: “Should I maintain the temperature of my still at exactly 174 F during a distillation run?” “No, certainly not,” is the response to this question. Why? The solution, as it turns out, has a lot to do with the chart above. A professional distiller, for example, may begin with a strong wash that contains a beginning alcohol concentration of 20 percent and may predict that ethanol will begin to boil out of the solution after the liquid temperature has reached around 190 degrees Fahrenheit.

Assume that halfway through the run, half of the alcohol has been removed from the wash and the wash has a 10 percent alcohol by volume content.

The basic line is that when a still is operated, the temperature continuously rises.

Where Should a Thermometer Be Installed on a Still?

If possible, we would want to at the very least place a temperature probe in the boiler. Always use a copper adapter that is 100 percent copper and a stainless steel thermometer to ensure that the temperature is accurate. It is also beneficial to include a secondary thermometer at the top of the column to measure the temperature of the vapor. Our recommendation is to have one in each site because it makes the distillation process a lot easier. Thermometers are located at the very top of the column.

Although both the boiler temperature and the vapor temperature are used to measure the temperature of liquid inside the still, the vapor thermometer is used to measure the temperature of vapor contained inside the column.

First and first, never attempt to measure the temperature of a motionless object using an infrared thermometer.

They monitor the surface temperature of a still rather than the temperature of the liquid or vapor inside.

Should Vapor Temperature and Wash Temperature be the Same?

The temperature of the vapor and the temperature of the wash should be quite different. As soon as vapor begins to develop in the pot and is forced to migrate up the column, the temperature of the vapor temperature probe at the top of the column (if one is mounted there) will climb from ambient to 175 degrees Fahrenheit in less than a minute. Hypothetically, the boiler thermometer may be reading something like 195 F (again, depending on the starting alcohol) at this stage, while the vapor probe may be reading as low as 175 F.

There will always be a significant temperature differential between the two temperatures (boiler and vapor), but this is not a significant issue.

How to Use Temperature During Distilling

Temperature is mostly useful in deciding when to seal the still, when it is about to begin producing, and when it is about to finish generating alcohol. When it comes to producing high-quality product, we continue to believe that adjusting heat according to the amount of product coming out of the still is the most dependable way. Rather than a stream of liquid, a commercial distiller should be looking for consistent, rapid dripping. Also, keep an eye out for evidence. If the proof is extremely low at the start of a run, either there is very little starting alcohol present or the still is operating at an excessively high temperature.

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How to “Cut” your Alcohol Distilling Run

Alcohol distillation is a centuries-old process that is both an art and a science, according to some scholars. It’s simple, but not as simple as simply turning on the computer and sitting back to watch it work. In order to produce the safest and finest tasting spirit possible, conscientious distillers understand that they must monitor temperature control when distilling, as well as the finished product – the distillate. When it comes to creating a high-quality result, one of the professionals’ secrets is their meticulous and accurate “cutting” during the still’s run.

It is necessary to “cut” the alcohol stream flowing from the condenser coil when moving between jars that contain distillate and those that are empty.

The Four Stages of Your Moonshine Run

Historically, alcohol distillation has been practiced as both an art and a science from the dawn of civilization. However, it is not as simple as simply turning on the computer and sitting back to watch it run. Distillers that are conscientious about temperature control know that they must keep an eye on the ultimate product – the distillate – to ensure that they produce the safest and finest tasting spirit possible. Their trained and accurate “cutting” during the still’s run are one of the specialists’ secrets to creating such a high-quality result.

In order to produce a spirit that anyone will want to drink, the timing of when you make these cuts is really critical.

The Foreshots

At each stage of the race, different types of alcohol are vaporized and sucked into a collection cup at the finish line. Fine, high-quality moonshine is made from ethanol, which boils at a temperature of 175 degrees Fahrenheit when heated to a boiling point. The boiling point of other chemicals and alcohols, such as methanol, is much lower, and the resulting condensed liquid will gather in your cup or jar after being condensed in the coil. These compounds are extremely toxic. The presence of these contaminants in your moonshine (or whatever alcohol you’re distilling) will not only degrade the flavor of your product, but they may also make people very unwell.

If you reach this temperature, the ethanol in the wash will begin to evaporate, and you may be confident that the distillate collected before this point includes the majority of the methanol and other hazardous chemicals.

In this initial container, you will find all of the distillate that has been gathered before your run reaches this certain temperature.

These are referred to as the “foreshots.” The foreshots should be around 10% of the total volume of your distillation run at the end of the process. Making the incision a bit later rather than early ensures that all of the potentially harmful substances are removed from the process.

The Heads

You will be distilling actual spirits as the temperature continues to rise. Even though the temperature in the still’s pot is rising to between 175 and 185 degrees Fahrenheit, the distillate will still contain significant amounts of non-ethanol chemicals that can be used to give your final product a bit more “bite” and flavor if used in conjunction with other ingredients such as spices. This may be great for a product such as whiskey or Scotch, because the complexity of those alcoholic beverages is derived from the mixing of several trace compounds.

The temperature range for the second cut you will make in your run will be between 185 and 190 degrees Fahrenheit.

Make a note of the heads and save them away for future distillation, or blend the appropriate quantity with the final distillate to flavor the alcohol to your liking.

The optimal strategy is to make this cut a bit later rather than earlier, and to gather some of the hearts with your heads rather than the other way around.

The Hearts

The distillate with the highest concentration of ethanol is the most desirable section of the run. This phase of your run is referred to as the “hearts” section. Many professionals and long-time distillers agree that this is the section of the run that takes place between around 190 degrees Fahrenheit and approximately 200 or 205 degrees Fahrenheit, respectively. Without a doubt, it is dependent on the still. Despite the fact that ethanol has a boiling point of 175 degrees Fahrenheit, the mash in your still does not contain pure ethanol.

The hearts will most likely account for about 30 percent or so of the overall amount of your booze run’s ultimate tally.

In this case, it is preferable to combine some hearts with your tails rather than some tails with your hearts.

The Tails

The distillate with the highest concentration of ethanol is the most desirable byproduct of the run, according to the operators. In running terms, this phase is referred to as the “hearts” segment. Many professionals and long-time distillers believe that this is the phase of the run that takes place between around 190 degrees Fahrenheit and approximately 200 or 205 degrees Fahrenheit (or little higher). Of course, it is contingent on the still. Despite the fact that ethanol has a boiling point of 175 degrees Fahrenheit, the mash in your still does not contain pure ethanol as the name indicates.

The hearts will most likely account for around 30% of the overall quantity of your alcohol run.

In order to maintain the hearts as clean as possible, it is usually preferable to make this incision early on. In this case, it is preferable to mix some hearts with your tails rather than some tails with your hearts.

The “Feints”

Fients are the containers containing heads and tails that you have set aside for later use in the process. In this case, you may either add them to the wash with your next run or distill them separately from the rest of the brew. It is possible to distill the feints in a smaller-size still after each alcohol run if you do not want to combine different recipes or tastes from separate mashes. After collecting feints for several runs, some people perform an all-feints run in a bigger still; this is known as the “queen’s share” of feint collection.

  • When it comes to learning the particular qualities of your still that will inform you when to cut your alcohol run, it may take some time and trial and error.
  • This will help you repeat successful runs and figure out where you went wrong in a batch that wasn’t up to your standards the next time around.
  • Follow the rules, practice safe distillation, and learn how to get the most hearts out of each batch, and you’ll be able to sip your moonshine with a grin on your face.
  • Luann Snider Photography provided the image for this post.

Using a Pot Still: Where To Make Your Cuts

Because there is a Quick and Dirty Cheat Sheet at the bottom of this blog, if you need to get anything done quickly, just scroll down until you reach the bottom of this page. Just keep in mind that manufacturing moonshine with a pot still is a skill that will only improve with time and experience. The temperatures listed here are excellent guides, but the more you distill, the better you’ll be able to determine when to make your cuts depending on your own personal preferences in flavor and scent.

A cut is essentially the point at which you begin and end the process of collecting your distillate.

It is also beneficial to name and number each jar because this will assist you at the end of the procedure when you are combining the ingredients together.

Foreshots

Because there is a Quick and Dirty Cheat Sheet at the bottom of this blog, if you need to get anything done quickly, just scroll down until you reach the end of it. Make no mistake about it: distilling whiskey in a pot still is a skill that can only be learned through experience. The temperatures listed here are excellent guides, but the more you distill, the better you’ll be able to determine when to make your cuts depending on your own personal preferences in flavor and scent.. You’ll hear folks talk about “making cuts” when it comes to moonshine production with a pot still.

You should always gather your distillate in many different glass containers, such as the iconic Mason jar, when distilling since the alcohol concentration and flavor alter as the distillation process progresses.

There is no difference between where you make your cuts and how you mix your completed product; it all comes down to flavor and purity of your moonshine.

Heads

The heads are the next step, which you may keep for mixing or re-distilling at a later time. When the heads begin to appear, the vapor temperature will be more than 175°F (80°C), and this will continue until the vapor temperature is around 196°F (91°C). Heads are normally approximately 80 percent abv (160 proof) or higher in alcohol concentration. They contain a lot of evidence, but they’re not nearly as smooth as the hearts, which will be served next.

Hearts

This is where the action is at its most effective. Hearts, also known as your Middle Run, start off at roughly 80 percent alcohol by volume (160 proof) before dropping to 60-65 percent alcohol by volume, or even 40 percent alcohol by volume if you want it stronger. Hearts provide you with the fresh flavor you’re seeking for. You’ll begin collecting hearts when the vapor temperature is around 196°F (91°C) and end when the vapor temperature is approximately 203°F (95°C).

Tails

In distillation, tails are the last component of the distillate, consisting of everything that comes out after the temperature of the vapor rises to 203 degrees Fahrenheit (95 degrees Celsius) – 207 degrees Fahrenheit (98 degrees Celsius) The use of tails for blending is popular, although Rick does not suggest it for palatable alcohol owing to the combination of lower alcohol level and increased congener content in tails used “as-is.” It is possible, however, to combine the tails with the heads that aren’t being used and re-distill the mixture to produce neutral spirits.

Again, the temperatures indicated here are excellent guides for beginners, but the more you distill, the more you’ll be able to choose when to make your cuts depending on your own personal preferences in flavor and scent.

More Distilling Info For Beginners

More articles containing tried-and-true advice may be found here. Take a peek if you have the luxury of leisure to go into the rabbit hole. Alternatively, you may view our full blog by clicking here.

Making Moonshine

Please see the links below for further articles with tried and effective suggestions. Take a peek if you have the luxury of leisure to explore the rabbit hole further. Alternatively, you may view our complete blog by clicking here..

Be the First to Share

There is usually a lot of misunderstanding when I am talking to people about their runs about why they need a heat controller and how they can utilize it to regulate their boil temperature. Simply said, you cannot use it to regulate the temperature of your boiler, but here is a more in-depth explanation of why you require the ability to regulate the temperature of your boiler. Because you are reading this, I am going to assume that you already have a good grasp of basic distillation, and if you don’t, you should brush up on your knowledge because a lot of what follows will probably make no sense to you at all!

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Boiler Temperature vs. Speed of Vaporization

Phase Diagram for Ethanol Consequently, let’s begin at the beginning. To boil your mash, you want to take advantage of the fact that alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water (and a lot of other chemicals that you don’t want in your final distillate), resulting in something with a greater alcohol by volume (ABV). It is entirely dependent on the alcohol distillation temperature that the mash will boil at, and based on this ABV, the mash will boil somewhere between the boiling points of ethanol (173 F) and water (212 F), unless you are 9000 ft above sea level like we are, in which case it will boil somewhere in the middle.

  1. The lower your alcohol by volume (ABV) is, the closer your temperature will be near 212 degrees.
  2. Please refer to the chart on the right for an illustration of this, and feel free to print it for future reference on the suggested boiler temperature range!
  3. In most cases, increasing the temperature of your boiler will not result in an increase in this temperature (unless your mash has not yet begun to boil).
  4. If you still don’t believe me, consider the process of boiling a pot of water on the stove.
  5. Once it reaches that temperature, it begins to boil, but it does not rise over 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

Does that make sense? It is for this reason that you must be able to regulate your heat input; you must be able to regulate the rate at which the vapors flow up your column or into the still head.. In the case of a pot still, the explanation is slightly different than in the case of a reflux still.

Why you need to control the rate of vaporization

The rate of vaporization must be controlled in a pot still in order to avoid pushing vapors through the system at such a rapid pace that the condenser cannot condense it all back into a liquid. When this occurs, you will have vapor coming out of the end of your still, which you should already be aware is quite dangerous! In the case of a heat source that cannot physically provide too much heat for your condenser, you will not be required to limit the rate at which the water comes to a boil. For example, our 1500W heating elements may be utilized without the need of a controller since our condensers are capable of condensing all of the vapors that a 1500W element will create, allowing the element to be used without a controller (as long as your water is cold enough).

In the event that you insert a 4500W or 5500W heating element into an all-purpose reflux still, a couple of things are likely to occur, among them: First and foremost, you would run into the same difficulty as with the pot still: the condenser would not be able to manage all of the vapor, resulting in the blowout of the still’s tail end.

Due to the lack of reflux in the column, the vapor exchange in all of your column’s packing is inhibited, and the “blown” vapor will typically pool on top of your column’s packing until it reaches the lyne arm (at which point the clear distillate will surge out every once in a while).

Ways to control your heat source

First and foremost, if you haven’t already, watch our video on the advantages and disadvantages of electric versus gas heat sources. Most novices begin with a propane burner setup since it is less expensive, and this is perfectly OK. However, one of the most common issues we have with propane burners is that they have difficulty operating at a low enough temperature to produce a slow, continuous trickle of distillate from your column. Their built-in venturi helps to draw in new air for combustion, but when you set the still down this low, the venturi no longer functions effectively, causing the flame to burn yellow instead of blue (and to deposit a thick layer of soot on the bottom of the boiler) owing to a lack of oxygen.

Thermostat controllers are the first to be discussed since they are the ones that are most frequently mishandled.

As previously stated, the temperature of the boiling wash is controlled by the ABV in the wash, not by the heat source you are using.

Even if you manage to dial it in to the exact temperature at which the wash will boil, it will cycle on and off, creating surges of distillate that will cause havoc with the way a reflux still runs, leading it to malfunction.

It is primarily for this reason that thermostat controllers are useful: they allow you to bring the still up to almost-boiling temperature and maintain it there until you return to complete the run, or they allow you to shut the still down once it reaches a temperature that indicates you are into your tails.

  1. These controls are not perfect, just as the thermostat controls are not perfect.
  2. However, they do have the advantage of being programmable.
  3. Even though these relays are rather sophisticated, I’ll make an attempt to explain them.
  4. Because we are using 60 Hz electricity, we are essentially cycling the heating element on and off 60 times per second without having to actually turn on and off the SSR 60 times.
  5. It is vital to remember, however, that as you boil the ethanol out of your wash, the amount of energy required to generate the same column of vapor increases (since the water content is increased and water takes more energy to vaporize than ethanol).

Sorry for dumping so much information on you all at once, but I hope it was helpful in clearing some things out for you. Let us know if you have any further questions in the comments section below!

How to Make Moonshine: A Distillers Guide Corn Moonshine

This book is a distillers’ guide to making moonshine. Moonshine made with corn

How to Make Moonshine:A Distillers Guide For Corn Moonshine

The most recent update was made on October 25, 2021.

Getting Started: Picking Your Type of Moonshine Mash

When preparing to make a batch of moonshine, we have a number of different mashes from which to pick. For purists, a corn whiskey mash is the only way to make moonshine that is faithful to tradition, smooth, and full of taste. Ingenious corn farmers realized that they might boost their income by distilling their own crop, and they took advantage of the opportunity. This insight paved the way for the development of our beloved booze. Following that is the “Sugar Shine” method, which is becoming increasingly popular, particularly among novices.

  • As a result, flavored moonshine has risen in popularity, and it is becoming increasingly widespread.
  • With the same amount of maize, you may increase your mash yield by a factor of two.
  • In this lesson, we’ll take you through the process of making a classic Corn Whiskey Mash.
  • Check out our apple pie moonshine recipe for a step-by-step instruction on how to make apple pie moonshine.

How to Make Moonshine: Corn Mash Recipe

  • A five-gallon bucket of water, 8.5 pounds of flaked corn maize, 1.5 pounds of crushed malted barley, yeast, a mash pot, a fermenting bucket, a heat source, a thermometer, and a long spoon.

Procedure:

  1. Start by placing your mash pot on a heat source and filling it with 5 liters of water
  2. Heat the water to 165 degrees Fahrenheit. After reaching 165 degrees Fahrenheit, turn off the fire and quickly whisk in 8.5 pounds of flaked corn maize. Continue to stir the mixture constantly for 7 minutes. Check the temperature every 5 minutes and stir the mixture for 30 seconds each time until the temperature reaches 152 °F. When the liquid has cooled to 152 degrees Fahrenheit, add 1.5 pounds of Crushed Malted Barley and stir well. Check the temperature every 20 minutes and whisk for 30 seconds until the mixture has cooled to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It takes many hours for this process to complete on its own, however the addition of an immersion chiller can dramatically shorten this timeframe. When the liquid has cooled to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, add the yeast. Allow for 5 minutes of aeration by pouring the mixture back and forth between two different containers. Fill the fermentation bucket halfway with the mixture. We provide entire kits for them as well as the supplies you’ll need to make them yourself. It is critical to have the bucket, cap, and air-lock on hand at all times. The use of a spigot also makes pouring more convenient.

George Duncan over at Barley and Hops Brewing also has a great video onHow To Make a Great Moonshine Mash.Check it out below!

Materials:

  • PH Meter (Advanced)
  • Siphon
  • Cheese Cloth
  • Citric Acid
  • And other supplies.

Fermentation

Store the mash at room temperature for 1-2 weeks to let it to ferment. The temperature is critical because if the temperature drops too low, the fermentation will halt since the yeast will become dormant. Make use of a hydrometer and verify the specific gravity at the beginning of fermentation and at the end of fermentation to confirm that all sugars have been used. This will tell you how much ABV (alcohol by volume) was created throughout your fermentation. Make a note of the specific gravity readings taken at the commencement of fermentation and at the conclusion of the fermentation process.

Watch this video to learn how to operate a hydrometer.

Straining

To correct pH, carefully siphon mash water out of the mixture, making sure to leave behind all solid material and sediment. Pour the mash water into a container and set it aside. It is advised that you strain the mashed potatoes through a cheesecloth at this point. The presence of solid debris in your mash water might result in headaches that you’d want to avoid. (Advanced) This is the stage at which some distillers may add 2 teaspoons of gypsum to their mash water. After that, they do a pH test on their mash water.

Use citric acid to lower the pH of the water, then calcium carbonate to raise it again.

How To Make Moonshine: Distilling

  • Fermented and strained mash water, cleaning products, and column packing are all used in the production of whiskey.

You did an excellent job! You’ve finished the hard work of making mash water for your moonshine! Congratulations! Finally, distillation and separation of all of the alcohol content into a refined form are required. Similarly to the process of creating mash, distillation is both an art and a science. Exercising your distilling skills is the most effective method to improve. We encourage that you take notes during the procedure so that you can improve with each subsequent run. In the event that you are in need of equipment or supplies, we can help you out.

We have everything from the traditionalcopper still to steel reflux units to the newGrainfatherBrewing System, and everything in between. We also carry high-quality supplies, such as high-quality grains and a new carbon filter, among other things.

Prepping Your Still

Maintaining a consistent level of preparation for your still is essential. However, even if you cleaned and let your still to sit for a bit after your last run, it is still advised that you clean it before transferring your mash water. This is especially true for copper stills that have a salt deposit on their surfaces. If you want to include packing in your column, now is the time. Fill your column with the amount of copper packing that is appropriate for your particular arrangement and use it as a filter.

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Last but not least, it’s time to fill the still with your mash water.

The goal here is to reduce the amount of sediment in your mash water to as near to zero as you possibly can.

Running Your Still

Now comes the exciting part! Distillation is a fantastic procedure that takes a long time. Those of you who are unfamiliar with the science may get the fast and dirty version by clicking on the link below. When distinct compounds are separated using distillation, it is done so by taking advantage of the differences in evaporation temperatures of the substances. Rather of producing alcohol, this procedure separates it from the rest of the components present in your mash water. During the fermentation process, you produced all of the alcohol (well, the yeast did).

If your arrangement includes a condenser, switch on the condensing water whenever the temperature reaches 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

Keep track of how fast your drips are increasing in pace until you reach 3 to 5 drips per second.

How To Make Moonshine: Collecting Your Distillate

Congratulations, you have progressed from researching How to Make Moonshine to actually creating your own moonshine! Make certain that you are pouring your distillate into a glass container as you are generating it. Never use plastic containers since they can contaminate your product with BPA, among other things, and cause additional problems.

Collecting Foreshots

In terms of percentage of your total productivity, the foreshots will account for around 5 percent. These are the alcohols that evaporate the earliest in your mash water and should never be consumed. Foreshots may contain methanol, and they should never be taken in any form. Methanol, among other things, has the potential to cause blindness. Gather the foreshots and place them in a separate container before throwing them away.

Collecting Heads

It is estimated that the heads account for around 30 percent of your total production. The heads, like the foreshots, contain volatile alcohols as well as other compounds. However, rather than causing blindness, the consequences are more mild – akin to having a bad hangover for many days.

Because to the presence of alcohols such as acetone, the heads will have a characteristic “solvent” scent to them. Similarly to the foreshots, place your heads in their own containers and discard the rest of them.

Collecting Hearts

This is the good stuff, which is primarily composed of ethanol. The following approximately 30 percent of your total production is comprised of the hearts. You should be able to smell the harsh, solvent-like scent that was present during the heads at this stage. The flavor of corn mash moonshine should now be smooth and sweet, as it should have been previously. This is the level at which ability and experience are most important. It takes a certain amount of skill to keep your hearts well-isolated while simultaneously increasing their output.

Collecting Tails

When you reach the conclusion of the ethanol process and enter the final step of your manufacturing process, you reach the tails. It is estimated that the tails will account for around 35% of your total production. The tails will have a completely distinct flavor from the hearts. You’ll notice a significant decrease in sweetness, and you may even see an oily top-layer on your product at this point. The substance will start to feel slick between your fingertips at this point. This is because to the presence of water, carbs, and proteins.

Conclusion

Congratulations for completing the task. We hope you were able to produce a fantastic batch. The only thing left to do is thoroughly clean your whole equipment. Allow for complete drying before storing in a cold, dry location. Learning how to create moonshine requires you to take on the roles of both a scientific and an artist at the same time. There’s a delicate balance to be struck here, and it can take years to master. We urge that you keep meticulous records of your moonshine production at all times.

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  3. If you enjoyed this advice on how to produce moonshine, you might also be interested in our instructions on how to make rum and how to make vodka.
  4. The most recent update was made on October 25, 2021.

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Excellent work, you made it! We hope you were able to produce a fantastic batch of cookies. Your setup should now just require a thorough cleaning. Allow for complete drying before storing in a cold, dry location. a Learning how to manufacture moonshine requires you to take on the roles of both a scientific and an artist. There’s a delicate balance to be struck here, and it can take years to perfect. Always keep meticulous records of your moonshine production, since this will help you avoid costly mistakes.

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Please see our other how-to instructions on how to create rum and how to make vodka if you loved this one on how to make moonshine!

Please let us know what you think of this tutorial by leaving a comment or giving it a star rating in the section below. Thanks for reading! On October 25, 2021, the most recent update was performed.

How to make Moonshine: DIY, Making moonshine, Instruction, Mash, Process

Corn whiskey, corn liquor, hooch, rotgut, stump, or white whiskey are all acceptable names for this spirit. Whatever you choose to name it, you’ll agree that moonshine is a drink that is enjoyed and drank all over the world. However, the issue remains as to how this widely consumed alcoholic beverage is created. Continue reading if you enjoy moonshine and would want to learn how to create moonshine. When it comes to manufacturing your own mash moonshine recipe at home, this comprehensive guide will walk you through all of the basic stages and safeguards you need to follow to ensure a successful outcome.

Remember to check your local laws and regulations regarding the production of alcoholic beverages.

All you need to know about How to make Moonshine

Are you prepared to get started and follow the simple steps? Great! Let’s take a look at the steps involved in manufacturing homemade moonshine whiskey.

Step 1: Choosing Your Preferred Type of Mash

When attempting to manufacture a batch of moonshine at home, there are several different types of mashes from which to pick. A distillers yeast, granulated sugar, and water are the three primary components in this recipe, in that order. Brewer’s yeast is a microbe that lives in water and eats sugar, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide as waste (byproducts) in the process. You’ll discover how to make the famous corn mash whiskey and moonshine ingredients from our tutorial in this section.

Step 2: Making Moonshine Mash

  • Ingredients: Water (5 gallons), flaked corn maize (8.5 pounds), crushed malt barley (1.5 pounds), yeast, fermentation bucket, mash pot, heat source, long spoon, and thermometer

Procedure

  1. Put the mash pot on the stovetop and fill it with 5 liters of water. Allow the temperature to rise to approximately 165 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature should reach 165 degrees before turning off the heat and beginning to mix in the flaked corn maize right away. Continuing to stir regularly for around 7 minutes at this reduced temperature is recommended. After every five minutes, stir the liquid for approximately 30 seconds to ensure that the temperature decreases to approximately 152 degrees. As soon as the temperature has reduced to 152 degrees, add the malted barley and continue to stir constantly. To guarantee that the temperature reduces to roughly 70 degrees after every 20 minutes, stir the liquid for approximately 30 seconds every 20 minutes. It is crucial to know that this process might take many hours to complete
  2. Thus, plan accordingly. The yeast should be added after the temperature has reached 70 degrees. In order to aerate the mixture, pour it from one container to another for approximately five minutes.

Fill the fermenting bucket halfway with the mixture.

Step 3: Fermentation and Straining Process of making Moonshine

  • Citric acid
  • Cheesecloth
  • Siphon
  • PH meter
  • Hydrometer
  • And other supplies.

Fermentation

Allow the mash to ferment at room temperature for approximately 7 to 15 days. Check the gravity of the fermented product at the beginning and conclusion of the fermentation process using your hydrometer.

Straining

Remove the mash water from the combination with your siphon while ensuring that you leave all of the sediments behind. Cheese cloth should be used to filter the mash water. Check the pH of your mash water to make sure it’s alkaline (it should be 5.8 to 6.0). If necessary, increase the pH with calcium carbonate and reduce it with citric acid to get the desired result.

Step 4: Distillation process

What You’ll Require

  • You’ll Need a Few Things

Prep the Still for Moonshine

Clean your moonshine still thoroughly before using it to guarantee that no dirt or dust particles wind up in your booze. Different stills operate in a variety of ways and come with a variety of accessories. Copper stills may be operated in a number of various ways as well. If your moonshine still includes a cooling unit, make sure it’s set up in such a manner that cold water is being fed into and exiting it. In addition, you must ensure that your column packing is appropriately configured. After you’ve set up your still, strained your mash, and mixed it all together, you’re ready to go on to the next stage.

  1. Turn on the heat source if necessary. It is recommended that you use a temperature of 150 degrees. At the same time, make sure to turn on the water. Increase the temperature until you begin to notice drips pouring out of the faucet
  2. Reducing the heat when the distillate is pouring 3 to 5 drips per second is a good idea.

The heat source should be activated. It is recommended that you choose 150 degrees as the optimal temperature. In addition, switch on the water at the same moment as well. Increase the temperature until you notice drips pouring out of the faucet. At 3 to 5 drips per second, lower the heat until the distillate is dripping 3 to 5 drips per second.

Step 5: Collecting Your Moonshine

If you are collecting the drips that come out of the still, be sure you are doing so in a glass container. The foreshots are the initial five percent of your distillate that you distill. Methanol is included in this product. It is toxic and should not be consumed since it can result in blindness. The remaining 30% is referred to as heads. This product also includes trace amounts of methanol and other potentially dangerous chemicals, albeit in minute amounts. As a result, this product should also not be consumed in any form.

The hearts make up the remaining 30% of the body.

Tails are the last portion of the distillate to be produced.

It has an oily texture and a slick feel to it when touched with your fingertips.

You now know How to Make Moonshine

And there you have it, the finished product! Hopefully, you have learnt how to distill alcohol and how to make moonshine, and you have created a wonderful batch of alcoholic cocktails or alcoholic beverages to share with your friends and family. Using your distillation spirit responsibly is important!

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