• Our Alcohol Still can be used for a variety of purposes, including seawater distillation, steam distillation, and alcohol distillation.

You may manufacture a variety of products in the stills, depending on your preferences, including alcohol, ethanol, whiskey, water distillation, winemaking, essential oils, hydrosol, and more

Please keep in mind that the distiller’s emblem is the brand “seeutek,” as shown in the photograph.

Step 2: Wrap the Thermometer with Teflon Tape

To begin with, we were merely going to wrap the thermometer with Teflon tape to make an airtight seal, but we quickly realized that we needed to fix it even more firmly in place with some hot glue (rated for high temps).

Most of the time, you could probably get away with applying hot glue at the end of the day and skipping the Teflon.

Step 3: Place the Thermometer in the Hole

1. Make sure your cooking thermometer is properly inserted through the opening so that it is flush with the top of the lid.

Step 4: Secure the Thermometer with Hot Glue

Hot glue is a poor option for this project (since it will be in direct contact with hot steam), but it is essential to remember that high-temperature hot glue sticks have a melting point that is far higher than the melting point of water (212 °), which should alleviate any concerns. Similarly, the melting point of “other liquids” (172.4 °) falls within this category. There are a variety of alternative adhesives available, including high-temperature silicone and even high-temperature resins. Just make sure that whatever you choose is rated for heat that is far more than the amount of heat generated by the liquid’s vapor.

Step 5: Drill a 3/8-inch hole in the Pot Lid

Make another 1/8-inch hole in the lid to start the process. This will serve as a starting hole for the much larger 3/8 inch drill bit that will be used later. Place it across the lid in a position that is roughly opposite the thermometer. Using the 3/8 inch drill bit, drill a hole in the wall 3/8 inch deep. The ugly burrs are difficult to notice, but they must be removed using a file.

Step 6: File as Needed

• There may be some difficulty while installing a compression fitting if there are any burrs present.
• Take a file and grind down the burrs until they are completely gone.

Step 7: Insert a Compression Fitting into the Lid

By twisting it through from the bottom of the lid, insert the male threaded nut of the compression fitting into the hole in the lid’s bottom. It’s likely that the fit will be imperfect, so don’t be concerned if it jiggles around a little. IN CONNECTION WITH: How To Make A Water Filter

Step 8: Seal the Fitting with Hot Glue

This seal must be completely airtight in order to prevent steam from escaping through it. It’s time to get out the old reliable glue gun once more! Make sure to use hot glue on the opposite side as well, working it in around the seams as you go along.

Step 9: Attach the Copper Coil to the Lid

1. Place the female-threaded nut that came with your compression fitting over one end of the refrigerator coil.
2. This end of your compression fitting has a device called a “ferrule” that comes with it.
3. Take the compression fitting and place it over one end of the refrigerator coil.
4. It’s a little circular ring with a hole in the center that appears similar to a grommet.
5. It is important to use a ferrule to provide a secure connection between the female and male ends of your compression nut.
6. Attach the female-threaded nut to the male-threaded nut that is protruding from the lid.

Step 10: Drill a 3/8-inch Hole in the Bucket

Start by drilling a pilot hole in the 5-gallon bucket using a 1/8-inch drill bit. Place it about two inches above the base of the plant. A 3/8-inch drill bit should be used to drill a 3/8-inch hole where the pilot hole was. Yes, you are required to drill a hole in your brand-new bucket before filling it with water.

Step 11: Insert Second Compression Fitting into the Bucket

Using a male-threaded nut from the other compression fitting, screw it into place in the bucket.

Step 12: Make the Seal Watertight with the Hot Glue Gun

1. Similar to how you did it with the lid, use the glue to secure this guy in place nice and snug.

Step 13: Tighten the Refrigerator Coil if Needed

If your coil is presently too large to fit snugly in whichever bucket you are using, you will want to shut down the coils before continuing with your project. Make use of something cylindrical to assist you in reshaping it, such as this coffee can we found in the kitchen.

Just about any cylindrical form will suffice for this purpose. Work slowly and carefully so that you don’t damage your tubing, pulling down on the coil rings to compress the system until it is the proper size.

Step 14: Attach the Coil to the Bucket

Place the second female-threaded nut over the coil on the opposite end of the coil and insert a ferrule into the nut’s female threads. Place this end of the coil into the bucket and thread the female nut onto the male nut that is protruding into the bucket from the exterior of the bucket to complete the installation. Your basic do-it-yourself project is now complete. We tied a bungee cord over the top of ours because the pot we used doesn’t lock down, which made it simpler to carry in the first place.

1. Notes on Use: This still should not be used to distill alcoholic beverages.

The boiling point of methanol is lower than that of alcohol, therefore if you are distilling alcohol, the early section of your distillate will include a high proportion of methanol in comparison to the rest.

In addition to being referred to as “wood alcohol,” it is also colorless, volatile, and combustible since it is manufactured from wood.

• It will kill you if consumed in excessive quantities.

If you were distilling salt water into potable water, for example, the boiling point of water is 212 °, so you would put the salt water in a pot and bring the water to a boil, keeping the heat source at a level that maintained a thermometer reading of 212 °.

Step 15: Add Ice

Okay, you don’t require quite as much as this: However, you will need to cool the gases that are produced in this still in order for them to condense back into liquid. When it comes to testing, ice is the most convenient option, and you only actually need a little bag if you’re utilizing a bucket as we did. Other methods include constructing a closed system with your bucket so that the gas cannot escape; but, in the interest of preventing someone from potentially blowing themselves up with compressed methanol, our attorneys advised us to leave that step out of the process.

1. Continue to look for more inspiration for your own creation.

The materials necessary for this project, not to mention the drilling and sealing that will be required, appear to be fairly extensive, but this project appears to be achievable and will be enjoyable.

Do you think you’ll be able to complete the project on your own now that you’ve learned how to construct a still?

• COMING UP:

Both analog and digital readouts are acceptable

1. a stove, a hotplate, or some other type of heat source

People often ask…

A: No, not at all. Aluminum, lead, tin, or any other metal should not be used to make your moonshine pot. Keep to stainless steel, copper, or a combination of stainless steel and copper, such as a stainless-steel pot with a copper bottom, as your materials of choice. For the highest quality, look for 304 stainless steel and C100 copper alloys.

Q: Can I use a wood stove as a heat source?

A: A variety of water heating solutions are available, but the temperature must be managed and maintained constant during the distillation process. This is why having a thermometer is so important. The ideal thermometer reading to use to heat your still is between between 175 and 205 degrees Fahrenheit.

Q: How long does it take to make one batch of moonshine?

1. A: Making moonshine is a time-consuming procedure that needs perseverance.
2. It is dependent on a variety of factors, including the amount of mash you start with, the temperature, your equipment, and others.
3. Expect to spend between 4 and 7 hours making a batch of mash for a 5-gallon batch of beer.

Safety Tips

Alcohol has a high flammability rating. Whenever possible, you should run your still outside or in a well-ventilated room if doing so outside is not feasible due to the need to give any stray alcohol vapors enough time to disperse. Before starting a run, run plain water through your system to check for leaks. Because of the volatile nature of alcohol and vapor, anything that permits it to escape is a safety issue. A fire extinguisher should always be kept on hand. Any alcohol flame should not be put out with water.

Never make the mistake of leaving your still running unattended while it is in operation.

Step 1: Readying the kettle (the vat)

• Make two holes in the lid of the pot or pressure cooker.
  In the center of the lid, drill a 1/8-inch hole a few inches from the edge. This is the opening through which the temperature sensor will pass
• Drill a 3/8-inch hole in the lid on the other side of the lid from where you drilled the previous one. This is the opening through which your cooling column (one end of the copper tubing) will pass
• Remove any rough metal burrs left by the drill using a file

Step 2: Attaching the thermometer to the kettle

• The sensor end of your thermometer should be able to fit through the 1/8-inch hole.
  Leaving enough space above the hole to bind it to the lid with a strip of Teflon tape, your go-to glue gun, or silicone sealant is highly recommended. A strong connection is formed, preventing the passage of vapor through the aperture and holding the temperature gauge in place so that it may be read with ease.

Step 3: Coil the copper tubing to make the condenser

• • Maintain the straightness of one tubing end and three to four inches of the other end
  • Coil the middle part of the tubing so that it fits inside your bucket or cooler.
  • Wrap the tubing around a paint or coffee can, or similar cylindrical shape with a diameter that is slightly less than the diameter of your bucket, to form a spiral shape.
  • Please keep in mind that the coiled spiral must move in a smooth, downward direction in order for the vapor to be continuously drawn downward by gravity via the tube.

  People often ask:

  A: Copper tubing is rather soft, and it may be shaped by hand if you use care. If you want, you may use a copper bending tool to bend the tubing, but be cautious not to crimp the tubing too tightly, since this can interfere with the vapor flow.

  Step 4: Attaching the copper tubing to the kettle

  • The longer straight end of the tube should be inserted into the 3/8 hole and the aperture should be sealed in the same way as the thermometer hole was sealed. Before bending the tubing into the coiled part, it should be standing upright in the kettle, forming a “swan neck” shape with its ends. Because of this, the vapor can ascend for a short distance before falling back to the ground due to gravity.

  If using compression fittings:

  The compression fittings, which are available in the plumbing area of your local hardware store, are an alternative option. They are available as a pair with both male and female ends. You’ll need two sets of these: one for the kettle and another for the bucket of boiling water. Please keep in mind that if you are utilizing a cooler-type container, the fittings will most likely be too short to pass through the thickness of the cooler wall.

  • Incorporate the male-threaded nut into the 3/8-inch hole in the lid of the kettle. Hot glue or silicone sealer can be used to seal the joints.
    Insert one end of the copper tubing into the female-threaded nut on the other end of the copper tubing. The tubing will be held in place by the ferrule, which is fashioned like a circle.
    Insert the female end of the fitting into the male end of the fitting that has been sealed to the lid
  • And

  People often ask:

  A: Make sure to get high-temperature glue sticks for this project, since they will be in direct touch with hot steam during the construction process.

  Keep an eye out for glue sticks with a melting temperature that is higher than 212 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the boiling point of water. Because you’ll only be utilizing heat much below that degree, any high-temperature resin will suffice.

  Step 5: Attaching the coil to your bucket or cooler

  • • If required, press down on your tubing coil to tighten down the rings so that they are the proper height for your bucket or cooler to fit inside of.
    • Keep in mind that the coil must spiral gently downward as it descends.
    • Additionally, you may extend the coil to accommodate a bigger bucket or when the condenser unit has to be elevated higher.
    • To begin, drill a 3/8-inch hole in the bottom of your bucket or cooler, a few inches above the water level.
    • ADVICE FROM THE EXPERTS: Plastic is prone to splitting.

    Remove any plastic burrs that may have accumulated around the hole made by the drill

  • Place the coil into the bucket and close the lid.

    This will be the outlet, or “spout,” through which the distilled moonshine will be dripped out into the atmosphere.

    1. When preparing the condenser bucket for operation, raise it by placing a can or other heavy item below it to provide support.

    You’ll also need enough room beneath the exit spout to accommodate your collecting jar.

    If using compression fittings:

    • Set up the second set of compression fittings by inserting the male end into the bucket hole and sealing it the same way you did with the first set. The portion of the fitting that protrudes from the exterior of the bucket serves as the “spout,” through which the distilled moonshine will be drained. Incorporate the female end of the fitting into the remaining open end of the coil within the bucket
    • And
      Insert the female end of the fitting into the male end of the fitting that has been sealed to the bucket

    Step 5: That’s it! You’ve made a pot still!

    In order to manufacture moonshine, you must first boil the mash in the kettle and then cool it in an ice bath in a bucket. Keep in mind to position a glass container under the spout to catch any stray alcoholic beverages. Pickling jars and fruit jars work great for this, and when you buy them from the shop, they will come with sealing lids. They are available in a variety of sizes, so have a few different ones on hand to capture the various phases of your moonshine production. In rural agricultural societies, these sorts of jars were commonly used to store fruits and vegetables for long periods of time.

    Frequently asked questions:

    • In general, you should expect to obtain roughly 20% of your mash volume back as ethanol;
    • for example, 1 gallon of mash will generate approximately 3-6 cups of ethanol, and 5 gallons of mash would provide between 1-2 gallons of ethanol.

    Q: How do I clean and store my homemade still?

    A: Use a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water to clean your moonshine still, or a product called PBW to clean your still (powdered brewery wash). Cook for 60 minutes, allowing the mixture to evaporate and condense through the tubing as it is added to your kettle several cups at a time. Repeat the process with fresh drinking water, and taste the water flowing out of the tube to check that the vinegar flavor has been eliminated. If necessary, scrape the interior of the pot with a brush with non-abrasive bristles to remove any residue.

    Soak the cured putty in water for a few minutes before scraping it clean using a steel-wool cleaning pad.

    1. Keep your DIY moonshinestill in a dry, dust-free location between usage, and wipe out the components after each use.

    Q: Does drinking moonshine make you go blind?

    ethanol, which is a grain-based alcohol and the intoxicating element in alcoholic beverages, is the primary constituent of moonshine. It does not cause blindness in any way. When methanol, often known as wood alcohol, is consumed, it might result in blindness. However, because methanol is not a distilled product, it will not be able to exit your still! Similarly, grain fermentation does not result in the production of methanol. Nonetheless, according to the FDA, a 1 percent concentration of methanol by volume or a daily dose of up to 600 mg is deemed safe.

    Q: How long does the moonshine last?

    A: DIY moonshine that has been sealed will often survive up to 2 years on the shelf. You are not need to refrigerate it, although you may do so if you choose. A jar of moonshine that has been opened will survive around six months.

    The Whiskey Still Company Gallon Moonshine Still

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    With the coupon, you may save 5 percent.

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  Moonshine Still Plans, Build-it-Yourself

  Setting yourself up to brew your own mixture of mind manipulation potion may be performed with the assistance of a set of moonshine still plans, which can be found on the internet. Prices are quite low! The MoonshineStill Design Plans are available as PDF files. The process of liquor distillation is a common recreational activity that involves boiling liquid in order to separate the contents of a combination based on variations in volatile components. Homemoonshine distillation is also known as distilling alcohol, hooch, firewater, whiskey – whisky, vodka, bourbon, gin, homebrew, and illegal spirits, among other terms.

  A physical unit separation procedure such as distillation is not to be confused with a chemical reaction process such as evaporation.

  Do-It-Yourself Home Made Moonshine Still Plans

  1. In order to better understand how the distillation process works, a handbook on planning and building a homemade alcohol distilling operation as well as a how-to guide on preparing the wash at home may be invaluable resources.
  2. Other resources, such as flavoring and aging instructions, aid in the development of your unique attitude-adjusting concoction’s creative outcome.
  3. The public’s desire for unusual flavorings is on the rise!
  4. The types of alcohol stills available are tailored to the sort of moonshine you are attempting to make.

  Another option is to brew your gasoline fuel for your motorized contraption in a still as an alternative.

  It has the potential to be a terrific solution to reduce your monthly vehicle budget.

  Moonshine Still Plans Come In Several Variations Including ColumnReflux, Valved Reflux, Internal Reflux, Inline Bokakob, Pot Stills andMany More Unique and Creative Contraptions.

  • Choosing the most appropriate Moonshine Still Design Plans for your requirements will rely on the type of liquor you intend to brew as well as the quantity of flavor you intend to integrate into your concoction.

  Reflux Still: Distilling Neutral Spirits

  Traditionally, alcoholic distillation alternatives such as Vodka, White Rum, and Gin have been distinguished by their neutral flavor, colorless appearance, and odorless characteristics, which make them ideal for use in cocktail mixers. These neutral spirits are more easily obtained by the use of a reflux still, which produces an alcohol to water ratio of 90 percent. Using a reflux still and multiple distillation cycles, most of the flavoring compounds in the alcohol are extracted. After this is completed, a charcoal soak or carbonfiltration can be used to eliminate any leftover flavor or contaminants.

  Pot Still: Flavorful Liquor Distillation

  It is possible to reap the taste advantages from all of the components that you add into your mashcan, creating a distinctive and delicious alternative to neutral spirits. Fact is, even traditionally neutral alcoholic beverages are increasingly being altered to impart distinctive tastes. When it comes to maintaining more flavor from your mash throughout the distillation process, pot stills are the most preferred choice among distillers. Pot-distilled liquor, the moonshiner’s preferred still, produces a potion that contains between 60 and 80 percent pure alcohol, with the remainder consisting primarily of water and different flavoring chemical compounds.

  1. Because the distillation process has many variables, regardless of the mind-altering potion you are attempting to make, researching your topic of interest before beginning is critical to ensuring success with your end product from the distillation process.

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  How To Make A Moonshine Still Step-by-Step

  Learn how to create a moonshine still and why you’ll need one for usage at home or for survival, as well as the benefits of doing so. OTHER RELATED:19 “Old World” Primitive Survival Skills You’ll WISH You Knew Before the End of the World In this post, we will discuss:

  • Why is it still worthwhile to make your own moonshine?
    What You’ll Need to Build a Moonshine Still
  • Homemade Moonshine Still Instructions
  • What You’ll Need to Make a Moonshine Still

  How to Make a Moonshine Still Step-by-Step

  What is a Moonshine Still, and how does it work? With a moonshine still, you may distill liquid mixtures by heating them up and then cooling them down. This process separates or purifies the liquid by separating or purifying it through the vapor that is collected.

  Why Is a DIY Moonshine Still Worth Your Time?

  1. When it comes to booze, moonshine is the term used to describe liquor that was created when it was unlawful to do so.
  2. Consequently, a moonshine still will not only create distilled water but also whiskey, which can come in useful during a disaster or survival emergency.
  3. It doesn’t matter if you’re keeping your body warm or surviving the cold.
  4. Despite the fact that we designed this still apparatus with the process of purifying water in mind, it doesn’t hurt to know that it can also be used to produce high-proof liquor.

  What You Need for a Moonshine Still Construction:

  It’s important to know that this is not an electric moonshine still before we get started with the project. Following are the components of a DIY still kit, in no particular order of importance:

  • Cooking thermometer
  • Teflon Tape
  • Hot glue gun with high-temperature hot glue sticks
  • Metal File
  • 3/8-inch to 3/8-inch compression adaptor (available in the plumbing area)
  • 20-foot refrigerator coil (we used a tamale steamer from a business that rhymes with Target…DOH! )
  • 5-gallon bucket
    Ice
  • A stove or other steady heat source (when using the still, you must ensure that whatever you are boiling remains at a consistent temperature throughout)

  Homemade Moonshine Still Directions

  Now, let’s get this moonshine still working, for real this time!

  Step 1: Start with the Cover

  • Using your drill, drill a 1/8-inch hole into the lid of the metal pot that will house your still.
  • To make things simpler, place the lid atop a scrap piece of wood and drill a hole a few inches back from the edge of the lid.

  Step 2: Prepare Thermometer

  Teflon tape should be used to secure the thermometer. As a first step, we were simply going to wrap the thermometer with Teflon tape to establish an airtight seal. However, we felt that some hot glue would be a good addition to further fix this item in place (rated for high temps). Most of the time, you can get away with just applying hot glue at the end of the day and skipping the Teflon altogether.

  Step 3: Set Up Cover and Thermometer

  Insert the thermometer through the opening. Make sure your cooking thermometer is properly inserted through the opening so that it is flush with the top of the lid.

  Step 4. Secure Thermometer

  1. Hot glue should be used to hold the thermometer in place.
  2. For those who are concerned that hot glue is a poor choice for this project (since it will be in close contact with hot steam), it is crucial to know that high-temperature hot glue sticks have a melting point that is significantly higher than the melting point of water (100 degrees Celsius).
  3. This is also true for the melting point of “other liquids” (78 °C), which is also true for water.
  4. There are a variety of alternative adhesives available, including high-temperature silicone and even high-temperature resins.

  THERE’S MORE ON THIS:Winter Survival |

  Step 5: Drill Another Hole

  Make a 3/8-inch hole in the lid of the pot. Make another 1/8-inch hole in the lid to start the process. This will serve as a starting hole for the much larger 3/8 inch drill bit that will be used later. Place it across the lid in a position that is roughly opposite the thermometer. Using the 3/8 inch drill bit, drill a hole in the wall 3/8 inch deep.

  Step 6: File

  1. If there are any burrs on the surface of the material, this might pose some difficulties while installing the compression fitting.
  2. Take a file and grind down the burrs until they are completely gone.
  3. IN CONNECTION WITH: How To Make A Salt Water Distiller | Survival Life Guide

  Step 7: Set Up Compression Fitting

  Compression fittings should be installed in the lid of the still. By twisting it through from the bottom of the lid, insert the male threaded nut of the compression fitting into the hole in the lid’s bottom. It’s likely that the fit will be imperfect, so don’t be concerned if it jiggles around a little.

  Step 8: Seal Fitting

  Hot glue should be used to secure the fitting.

  This seal must be completely airtight in order to prevent steam from escaping through it. It’s time to get out the old reliable glue gun once more! Make sure to use hot glue on the opposite side as well, working it in around the seams as you go along.

  Step 9: Attach the Copper Coil to the Lid

  To attach the compression fitting to one end of the refrigerator coil, use the female-threaded nut that came with the fitting. It is included with this end of your compression fitting is a piece of hardware known as a “ferrule.” It’s a little circular ring with a hole in the center that appears similar to a grommet. In order to ensure a secure connection between the female and male ends of your compression nut, the ferrule is used. The female-threaded nut should be screwed onto the male-threaded nut that protrudes from the lid of the still.

  Step 10: Drill a Hole into the Bucket

  1. Drill a 3/8-inch hole in the bucket with a drill bit.
  2. Start by drilling a pilot hole in the 5-gallon bucket using a 1/8-inch drill bit.
  3. Place it about two inches above the base of the plant.
  4. A 3/8-inch drill bit should be used to drill a 3/8-inch hole where the pilot hole was.

  Step 11: Insert Second Compression Fitting

  The second compression fitting should be placed into the bucket. Using a male-threaded nut from the other compression fitting, screw it into place in the bucket.

  Step 12: Make the Seal Watertight

  Using the hot glue gun, make the seal completely waterproof. Seal this man with glue, just like you did with the lid. Make sure it is well sealed.

  Step 13: Tighten Refrigerator Coil

  • Tighten the refrigerator coil if it is necessary.
  • If your coil is presently too large to fit snugly in whichever bucket you are using, you will want to shut down the coils before continuing with your project.
  • Make use of anything cylindrical to assist you in reshaping it, such as this coffee cup that may be found in the kitchen.
  • Just about any cylindrical form will suffice for this purpose.
  • Work slowly and carefully so that you don’t damage your tubing, pulling down on the coil rings to compress the system until it is the proper size.

  Look over to DIY Projects for more information on this project and the whole set of instructions!

  A DIY version will still take a significant amount of supplies, but having one on hand will be quite beneficial in a variety of situations.

  1. Let us know what you think in the comments section below!
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  Traditional Kentucky Whiskey Pot Still Plans – Learn How To Build A Pot Still At Home – Learn to Moonshine

  This article will walk you through the process of building a 6 gallon Kentucky style copper pot still from scratch. Everyone interested in home distillation will find this size to be ideal, and it can be built by anybody with a basic understanding of soldering techniques. The classic rum or whiskey moonshine still design is for you if you’re bored of creating the same old boring neutral spirits with your reflux still and want to manufacture a wonderful traditional rum or whiskey moonshine. This strategy, however, is more difficult to execute than the majority of other plans.

  • You can’t beat the pricing and the quality of the construction.

  Although the sheet of copper was not inexpensive, I rather liked the process of creating my own Pot.

  The Pot still that we will be building is depicted in the image below.

  1. You’ll need the following materials and tools to complete your project:

  • A half sheet of copper measuring 3 feet by 4 feet (use 18 gauge copper) Copper sheets are available for purchase on Amazon at a reasonable price. Buy a roll of 95/5 tin/silver solder
  • Anything containing cadmium/antimony or lead should be avoided. The use of rivets made of stainless steel or copper is recommended. Copper tubing 1/4 inch in diameter – 8 feet should enough
  • 3/4″ copper pipe – 3 ft
  • 3/4″ brass connection (female and male ends)
  • 3/4″ copper pipe – 3 ft

  Tools and Equipment Necessary

  • Solder Gun (blow torch) with Mapp Gas
  • Rivet Gun
  • Tin Snips
  • File (for smoothing edges and burrs)
  • Hammer
  • Scissors
  • Tape
  • Pencil
  • Ruler
  • Compass
  • Pliers
  • Solder Gun with Mapp Gas
  • Rivet Gun with Mapp Gas

  Step by Step Instructions to Build thePot Still

  • Step 1 – On your sheet of copper, you will need to trace the arrangement outlined in red.
  • To accomplish this, print the layout from the following pdf file: Template for a 6 gallon copper pot still Alternatively, if you want a larger still, the 12 Gallon Copper Pot Still Design Plan Template can be used.
  • This download contains 28 sheets that should be printed and constructed to fit the 6 Gallon Still.
  • The pages are the correct size for the still.
  • In order to print at true size, make sure your printer is configured to do so.

  2.

  Measure and trace the forms onto your sheet of copper with a pencil, then cut out the shapes with your tin snips (optional).

  Making the Top and Bottom Pans for thePot Stilland Condensor

  1. Step 1 – Begin with the bottom piece of the puzzle.
  2. Using this method, you will get the bottom pan of the still.
  3. Finding the center of the circle using a ruler and then with a compass are two methods of doing so.
  4. Using the compass, trace around the perimeter of the pan.
  5. This should be placed 1/2 inch from the edge of the table.
  6. 2nd Step: With the help of a pair of pliers, form ruffles around all four corners of the sheet, following the scribed line as your guide.
  7. To finish, hit the bottom edge of the ruffle with a flat body work hammer until it comes to a 90-degree bend (the flat body work hammer works best).

  Mapp gas, not propane, should be used.

  Start with one end of the pan and work your way around the whole edge.

  • In Step 5, get your hammer out again and rework the pan edge until it is perfectly 90 degrees in relation to the bottom of the pan.

  Step 7 – The bottom of the pan will distort somewhat as a result of heating; this can be readily flattened by hand or with a rubber mallet on a smooth, level surface with little difficulty.

  Here is a video that illustrates the construction of the Pan” alt=””>.

  Building theFrustum For the Pot Still

  • There are three frustums in this pot still design, which comprise the top, bottom, and cap frustums, all of which must be joined before the pot is complete.
  • Follow the procedures outlined below to do this (*Please note that you may alternatively construct the flake stand wall by following these steps): Step 1 – Let’s start with the frustum at the bottom of the page.
  • In the vice, secure a metal rod by squeezing it firmly;
  • we will use this to mold the copper sheet that we have cut out for the bottom frustum.

  This activity should begin to form an arc in the copper sheet as a result of the previous step.

  On the seam of the Frustum, you should have approximately a 12 inch overlap.

  1. Step 3 – Remove the bottom pan and clamp the bottom of the frustum to the spot on the floor.

  The rivets should be spaced 1 inch apart on center over the full length of the seam.

  Check out this video, which demonstrates the steps involved in constructing the Frustum for the pot still.

  1. Repeat the previous processes for the top and cap frustum, as well as for the collar.

  Assembling All The Parts

  It’s time to put everything together so that the pot will stay motionless. Start by taking the bottom pan and squeezing the bottom frustum into the pan. Step 2 – Secure the bottom pan with rivets. Step 3 – Repeat these procedures for the top pan and cap frustum (for more information, check the photographs). Fourth, insert the Lyne Arm through the hole you previously created in the top frustum and rivet it in place. Step 5 – Attach the collar to the top of the frustum. The top and bottom frustums of the pot still are assembled in this step.

  The next step is to solder everything together.

  1. You have now completed the construction of the pot, but we have not yet constructed the worm or the stand.

  Building the Flake Stand and Worm for the Pot Still

  Insert the flake stand wall into the flake pan and rivet the flake pan and vertical seam together to secure it in place. Second, using 1/4″ copper tubing, coil it up so that it fits snugly inside the pan. Step 3 – Drill two holes for the 1/4″ copper worm to be used later. One at the top of the flake stand, where the worm enters, and one at the bottom, where it departs the stand. (It may be simpler to do this before it is put together. ) Using the Worm, carefully insert the worm inside of the Flake stand, making sure that the worm’s ends poke out through the holes that you just drilled.

  5.

  1. One will serve as the water outflow and the other will serve as the water intake.

  Insert 1/2-inch copper pipe into the holes and solder it into place.

  Solder a brass fitting to the inlet side of the worm using solder.

  1. (For further information, check the photos below.
  2. ) That, I believe, sums it up nicely!

  However, if you want to utilize this design to make a larger or smaller pot, you may change the size of the original template by using thisScaling Chart to change the size of the design.

  In the event that you decide to construct this pot still, I’d love to hear from you.

  1. If you come up with a better approach to construct this, please share your findings with me!

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  John Wheeler